Livin' On A Prayer


We're halfway there. Today marks the halfway point in our experience of India and what better way to celebrate than with a trip to the Taj Mahal. Our journey to Agra resulted in a massive day for the group but a day that will be remembered for a long time to come as we soaked up the mastery of a wonder of the world.


Tuesday 19 December​


6am – Mr Jordan woke everyone up singing "We're going to the Taj, Taj, Taj, how about Raj, Raj, Raj?" Roni Chapman, still half asleep, responded "Who's Raj…?" We're not sure, Roni, but at least it rhymes.

6.30am – We set off for Nizamuddin Railway Station by rickshaw. Strangely clear streets meant we got there lightning quick, some topping 70 kph with that 'crisp' Delhi air flying past.

7.15am – All groups arrived at the station and proceeded through 'security' (another unmanned x-ray machine) and through to our platform to tuck into some railway samosas before our journey – these things are seriously good! Ryan Donovan was sighted going back for his 6th helping. Apparently "man is bulking" but any 'bulk' on the man is invisible to my eyes.

8.10am – The Gatimaan Express rolled away on time and we were on our way to Agra and the Taj Mahal. The breakfast omelette served with fries (???) on the train went down well with most of the boys.

10am – The train arrived a fashionable 10 minutes late at Agra Cantt station (Indian Railways, you just get better!) and our tour guide, Asif, was there to greet us with a sign. Reuben, who has recently earned his first job in "the law", appreciated the corporate touch.

10.30am – We all boarded maxi golf buggies to the entrance to the Taj Mahal where Nikau Reti-Beazley had his tino rangatiratanga flag confiscated by security as he was apparently "trying to make a political statement". Mr Jordan's finances logbook was also taken off him. Imagine the havoc our group could have wreaked had we managed to get both items in! The next 2.5 hours were spent taking in this absolute spectacle. Even on the 3rd time of visiting, the Taj amazed. Asif was able to provide a brilliant run-down of the Taj's historical and architectural features. For those wanting an insight to our insight: The Taj Mahal (Crown Palace, in Hindi) was built over 22 years from 1632 to 1653 and commissioned by the then-reigning and 5th Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan. He built the Taj as a display of love for his late wife, Mumtaz Mahal, and the structure is actually a mausoleum for her, her tomb being its centrepiece. The entire complex is constructed with beautiful symmetry. Even the adjacent mosque (where Muslims face Mecca and pray) is mirrored with a fake mosque (being a mirror image, it doesn't face Mecca) on the other side of the Taj. The Taj itself is built on a foundation of water wells and teak and its surrounding minarets stand on a 4° lean, earthquake-proofing the mausoleum. The whole structure appears a white painting on a blue backdrop and had everyone in our group marvelling at its beauty and intricacy.

1pm – We left for a nearby marble emporium with craftsmen demonstrating the cutting and shaping of the marble and jewels which make up the Taj. The boys, once bitten twice shy, appeared to shop with far more moderation than at Tripathi's silk emporium.

2pm – A buffet lunch was enjoyed lunch at an old favourite, Kesar Restaurant. Better than the food were the 4 men stationed in the bathroom to help everyone through the process.

3.30pm – Following lunch we took off for Agra Fort. Once again, Asif provided a fantastic background to this walled city. Completed by the 3rd Mughal emperor, Akbar the Great, in 1573, the Fort served as the key residence for the Mughal emperors until the capital was moved from Agra to Delhi in 1638. Not only a military stronghold, the Fort contained palaces built for each of the emperors, a grape garden, concubine quarters, and opium centred chambers. Of interest for the boys was that Shah Jahan – the emperor responsible for the Taj Mahal – was imprisoned in the Fort by his son Aurangzeb, and given only a view of the Taj Mahal for the rest of his days.

5pm – Hearing that our train was delayed by 2 hours, we killed time by venturing to Costa Coffee for a light snack and a cuppa. We were intending to have debrief here until the café staff decided we looked like the kind of blokes who would enjoy some dirty Drum & Bass, more likely to be found in the Viaduct's Lenin bar. With the atmosphere spoiled (or enhanced, depending on who you talk to), debrief became: anonymously, write on a post-it note where you are at now that we are at the halfway point of the trip; how are you emotionally? How do you feel about India? What are your thoughts? Some very honest and varying responses amongst the boys.

7.15pm – Our coach pulled up at the station, still very early for our late 6.55pm train. There we killed more time tucking into yet more samosas (man is still bulking), playing cards, and evading 2 would-be pickpocketers who took an interest in Aaron Wyllie's upper legs – at least someone is noticing the work this man puts in on the bike!

8.45pm – No sooner than it had arrived, the Taj Express (definitely not as beautiful as its namesake and certainly not express), departed and we were on the way back to Delhi.

12.35am – The train finally arrived at Nizamuddin, 2.5 hours late, after a journey that involved a mouse crawling through the overhead fluorescent lamps and gear changes that jolted the entire carriage. Somehow most of the boys managed to sleep the entire trip.

1.15am – We arrived back at the glorious Hotel Namaskar by rickshaw after an enormous day. Great effort from the lads, who were attentive and enthusiastic all day. They have most definitely earned their (albeit very firm) beds tonight.

MVP – Ben Lerner. "Rigga" as he has been called on tour (don't ask me how this nickname came about, I don't think anyone knows) is never without a cheeky grin and a positive attitude, and we do love that about him. What we love more, though, is Rigga's dancing. Rigs has unleashed his moves on a number of occasions over the past couple of weeks and what a treat it has been to witness his take on Michael Jackson, the running man, and the windmill. Tonight, however, Ben provided much more than these. Touted as a jazz man, it would seem D&B (drum and bass for those less cultured) is far more his calling. As the 3rd verse of "Get Dirty" dropped in Costa Coffee tonight, Rigs – bouncing on his seat – got "too lit" and spilled his coffee all over the table. His Ali Baba pants ruined and George Skinner's new Taj Mahal playing cards sopping, we think it only fair to award Ben today's MVP as both compensation and congratulations from the India Immersion School of Dance.

Thought – "The world is a book and those who do not travel only read one page." – St. Augustine.
Immersion begets understanding. Hearing of the story and intricacy of the Taj Mahal today only enhanced its beauty. Furthermore, experiencing it physically gave each of us a far greater appreciation for its wonder than any photo could have conveyed (sorry to those at home!) The same can be said of our tour to date: despite preparation, sharing of photos and blogs, nothing compares to just being here. Coming face to face with India, learning her history, hearing from her people has enlarged our experience. Immersion has enabled us to get to know an entirely foreign place and, in doing so, widened our perspective. Perhaps we can take that example and apply it to our day-to-day lives. What if we took more time to understand more that is foreign to us? What would we learn about each other? What would we learn about ourselves?


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