Back Into The Fray
Aum hari aum. I don't really know what this means but I heard our tour guide, Mr Tripathi, say it a few times today and it's probably appropriate. I'm writing this blog onboard the Shiv Ganga Express, our train from to Delhi, back to real India - yes the train arrived!
Varanasi has been good to us – I don't think anyone will appreciate a hot shower and clean clothes as much as we have the past 2 days – but it's time to move on… or at least get away from Tripathi. Today, Tripathi told us how to be a good person and generate good karma in the Hindu religion while also showing us that all this means nothing as long as you can make a buck out of it. I love this man. Here's how it played out:
Sunday 17 December
5.15am – The boys were woken to me chanting 'aum' outside their rooms. Just getting in touch with my Hindu spirit before our morning out on the Ganges River.
5.30am – We set off for the Ganges with our dear friend and "Commander" Mr. Tripathi, the "famous" man leading each of us by the hand to our cars – a gesture more to make sure he is in control of the entire situation than anything else.
6am – With the sun yet to break above the riverbank, we took a boat out on the river where Tripathi explained the Hindu practises to be observed. Asked to pray to our God, we floated 'Lights of Life' (shallow dishes containing flowers and lit with wicks) down the river. I think I can speak for the group in saying that we were all praying for our train to turn up tonight! On the ghats that line the river, hundreds gathered to take a holy bath, cleansing themselves of their sins. The Ganges is said to be purifying and removes not only physical dirt but symbolic dirt as well. Our boat progressed along the river and came upon the burning ghat, the great cremation ground of Varanasi and the most sacred Hindu place for post-death rituals to be performed. The soul is said to be granted instant salvation upon immersing the ashes in the Ganges and we sat in silence as we watched a body being bathed in the river, preparing for cremation on one of the great burning stacks on the shore. An absolute privilege to watch people's faith in action.
6.48am – The sun came up above the riverbank as Tripathi proceeded to tell us how popular he is in New Zealand. Everybody loves him! Perhaps not so much as he loves himself…
8am – We returned to the hotel, dodging the many cows that occupy Varanasi's streets, and on Tripathi's direction (of course) we took breakfast. The early start seemed to get the better of Cam MacFarlane as he proceeded to rest his weary head in his masala omelette.
9am – Everyone took the opportunity to catch up on the sleep we missed this morning. Cam was happy to continue dozing in his breakfast.
12pm – Checked out and bags packed, we followed Tripathi's lead to his old mate's silk emporium. Passing several other emporium owners on the way, one shouted "don't trust Tripathi!" Probably the only store owner in India who speaks the truth as Tripathi is sure to earn a healthy commission from every purchase. On arrival at the silk emporium, it was showtime – Tripathi's mates pulling out all the stops for our boys. First, we observed silk weaving by handloom, several men working on pieces for months demonstrating their craft. From then, silk was flying everywhere – Tripathi's posse pulling out pashminas, scarves, pillow cases, bedspreads, and more in a huge exposé. "Feel the quality!" "I show you not to buy, just to look, just to look." "This is best quality. This is a place to utilise your plastic money!" That last one might've come from Reuben, actually, as rumours have been circling he is 'on the cut' too. The boys, blissfully unaware of the dirty deals going on in the background, made several purhcases – I hope you readers at home asked Santa for silk this Christmas!
1.30pm – We were back at the hotel for lunch and our final afternoon at Hotel Surya. Mr Crook returned for another massage – the man can't get enough! Is it the nappy style attire he gets made to wear that he enjoys so much? Meanwhile, Richard Boswell got everyone in his vicinity to feel his "silky smooth" legs. Leo Smith, though he hasn't had his waxed, was able to offer everyone a similar experience.
5pm – Tearfully, we said our goodbyes to Hotel Surya, Sam Lindberg hugging each pillar of the hotel before he left, apparently terribly upset to be leaving "his Nirvana". We loaded our bags into vans and went on our way. But not before one of the vans drove straight through the neon "Hotel Surya" sign at the hotel entrance. How good is this country.
6pm – We arrived at Manduadih station and stocked up on samosas, chips and biscuits, ready for the train journey to Delhi that awaited us.
6.40pm – Our train arrived an hour early. AN HOUR EARLY. Our prayers were answered and I've officially decided I'm converting to Hinduism. Thank you, Lord Shiva. We boarded the train and settled into games of 500 and scum.
10pm – Everyone waited for Reuben and Josh Hamilton to finish arguing over who gets the top bunk and finally Josh won so we could all go to sleep.
Thought - Witi Ihimaera once wrote of the great rope of man twisting through time and each of us being a thread within that rope which upon living out of own lives in a meaningful way enhanced the strength and length of the rope. Today as they placed their 'Light of Life' into Mother Ganga the boys were asked to think of the millions who have gone before them. In a place of such spiritual and historical significance, they took the time to consider that they are part of something much larger than themselves. A thread within a collection of threads, each one representing the characters who have walked before them or alongside them, characters whose stories are equally as vivid and complex as their own.
MVP – Lachie Dickson. To Lachie, whether right or wrong leadership is about inspiration by example, leading from the front. Lachie is a commander like Tripathi but while Tripathi leads with his words, Lachie leads with his actions. Today, Lachie was the first to be ripped off (much like the hairs on Boswell's legs), the first to purchase a silk scarf of the finest quality (or so he was told). And, from there, it was game over, the rest of the group dropped like flies, debit cards and rupees changing hands at rapid pace. So, Lachie, on Tripathi's command, I must award you MVP – without you and your guiding example, his pockets would not be so full.
Tom
Varanasi has been good to us – I don't think anyone will appreciate a hot shower and clean clothes as much as we have the past 2 days – but it's time to move on… or at least get away from Tripathi. Today, Tripathi told us how to be a good person and generate good karma in the Hindu religion while also showing us that all this means nothing as long as you can make a buck out of it. I love this man. Here's how it played out:
Sunday 17 December
5.15am – The boys were woken to me chanting 'aum' outside their rooms. Just getting in touch with my Hindu spirit before our morning out on the Ganges River.
5.30am – We set off for the Ganges with our dear friend and "Commander" Mr. Tripathi, the "famous" man leading each of us by the hand to our cars – a gesture more to make sure he is in control of the entire situation than anything else.
6am – With the sun yet to break above the riverbank, we took a boat out on the river where Tripathi explained the Hindu practises to be observed. Asked to pray to our God, we floated 'Lights of Life' (shallow dishes containing flowers and lit with wicks) down the river. I think I can speak for the group in saying that we were all praying for our train to turn up tonight! On the ghats that line the river, hundreds gathered to take a holy bath, cleansing themselves of their sins. The Ganges is said to be purifying and removes not only physical dirt but symbolic dirt as well. Our boat progressed along the river and came upon the burning ghat, the great cremation ground of Varanasi and the most sacred Hindu place for post-death rituals to be performed. The soul is said to be granted instant salvation upon immersing the ashes in the Ganges and we sat in silence as we watched a body being bathed in the river, preparing for cremation on one of the great burning stacks on the shore. An absolute privilege to watch people's faith in action.
6.48am – The sun came up above the riverbank as Tripathi proceeded to tell us how popular he is in New Zealand. Everybody loves him! Perhaps not so much as he loves himself…
8am – We returned to the hotel, dodging the many cows that occupy Varanasi's streets, and on Tripathi's direction (of course) we took breakfast. The early start seemed to get the better of Cam MacFarlane as he proceeded to rest his weary head in his masala omelette.
9am – Everyone took the opportunity to catch up on the sleep we missed this morning. Cam was happy to continue dozing in his breakfast.
12pm – Checked out and bags packed, we followed Tripathi's lead to his old mate's silk emporium. Passing several other emporium owners on the way, one shouted "don't trust Tripathi!" Probably the only store owner in India who speaks the truth as Tripathi is sure to earn a healthy commission from every purchase. On arrival at the silk emporium, it was showtime – Tripathi's mates pulling out all the stops for our boys. First, we observed silk weaving by handloom, several men working on pieces for months demonstrating their craft. From then, silk was flying everywhere – Tripathi's posse pulling out pashminas, scarves, pillow cases, bedspreads, and more in a huge exposé. "Feel the quality!" "I show you not to buy, just to look, just to look." "This is best quality. This is a place to utilise your plastic money!" That last one might've come from Reuben, actually, as rumours have been circling he is 'on the cut' too. The boys, blissfully unaware of the dirty deals going on in the background, made several purhcases – I hope you readers at home asked Santa for silk this Christmas!
1.30pm – We were back at the hotel for lunch and our final afternoon at Hotel Surya. Mr Crook returned for another massage – the man can't get enough! Is it the nappy style attire he gets made to wear that he enjoys so much? Meanwhile, Richard Boswell got everyone in his vicinity to feel his "silky smooth" legs. Leo Smith, though he hasn't had his waxed, was able to offer everyone a similar experience.
5pm – Tearfully, we said our goodbyes to Hotel Surya, Sam Lindberg hugging each pillar of the hotel before he left, apparently terribly upset to be leaving "his Nirvana". We loaded our bags into vans and went on our way. But not before one of the vans drove straight through the neon "Hotel Surya" sign at the hotel entrance. How good is this country.
6pm – We arrived at Manduadih station and stocked up on samosas, chips and biscuits, ready for the train journey to Delhi that awaited us.
6.40pm – Our train arrived an hour early. AN HOUR EARLY. Our prayers were answered and I've officially decided I'm converting to Hinduism. Thank you, Lord Shiva. We boarded the train and settled into games of 500 and scum.
10pm – Everyone waited for Reuben and Josh Hamilton to finish arguing over who gets the top bunk and finally Josh won so we could all go to sleep.
Thought - Witi Ihimaera once wrote of the great rope of man twisting through time and each of us being a thread within that rope which upon living out of own lives in a meaningful way enhanced the strength and length of the rope. Today as they placed their 'Light of Life' into Mother Ganga the boys were asked to think of the millions who have gone before them. In a place of such spiritual and historical significance, they took the time to consider that they are part of something much larger than themselves. A thread within a collection of threads, each one representing the characters who have walked before them or alongside them, characters whose stories are equally as vivid and complex as their own.
MVP – Lachie Dickson. To Lachie, whether right or wrong leadership is about inspiration by example, leading from the front. Lachie is a commander like Tripathi but while Tripathi leads with his words, Lachie leads with his actions. Today, Lachie was the first to be ripped off (much like the hairs on Boswell's legs), the first to purchase a silk scarf of the finest quality (or so he was told). And, from there, it was game over, the rest of the group dropped like flies, debit cards and rupees changing hands at rapid pace. So, Lachie, on Tripathi's command, I must award you MVP – without you and your guiding example, his pockets would not be so full.
Tom
Ouch! I can see why I am transferring more dollars today……look forward though to compare colours and designs of our finest quality silk pashminas and scarves with other parents at the after tour party.
ReplyDeleteSunday dinner at home was kiwi made butter chicken in support of your Indian adventures but probably not as spicy or as authentic as the meals you hopefully are all enjoying.
Happy explorations:)
Brilliant, I laughed all the way through that post! Thanks for the update Tom.
ReplyDelete